Sitting on the rooftop of the small hotel, I sip my strong coffee and watch how the pinks and milky orange of the sunrise make even the dirtiest parts of the landscape seem translucent. From this vantage spot I look out at the Chinese influenced pagoda rooftops, scattered palm and banana trees, locals on bicycles and motorized tuk tuks and feel at peace.
The warm morning air carries a sweet and smoky aroma from the rubbish, wood and brush fires off in the distance. It reminds me of pipe tobacco and for a moment, I am transported back to the streets of Lisbon, Rome, Palermo, Biarritz - assorted European city's where smoke shops announce their presence blocks away by the vapors and collective exhales of locals and tourist sampling the latest blends.
It is Siem Reap - one of the largest populated areas of Cambodia and THE tourist destination for this part of southeast Asia. With its massive collection of ancient temples, most notably Angkor Wat - ancient-wonder aficionados travel to this smallish sized city of native Khmer locals, whose calm Buddhist demeanor seemingly soothe the chaos of millions who journey here each year.
Eight years ago, I facilitated my first sacred site tour to the area, easily awe-struck by the unparalleled beauty of the ancient Hindu/Buddhist influence and artistry of its massive temple complexes . Now, the intent for my yearly returns expands to supporting the beauty of its citizens.
Cambodia is where I first encountered my greatest distinction between 'the haves and the have nots'. Tourism, although revered as the salvation of this remarkably poor, third-world country, has paradoxically driven many of the locals further into desolate and deplorable land conditions.
My instinct/mission to offer sustainable assistance began by fumbling and bumbling my way towards creating a path in funding the construction of fresh water wells in the innumerable villages. That mission has expanded into the birth of a non-government regulated school for those children considered "disposable" - the orphaned, handicapped and disenfranchised.
Since starting this blog, I have written about my experiences here on previous travels.
Now, with my annual return, my Cambodian friend and business partner Ohm is driving me and traveling companion Ty Andrews to our school site.
It is Sunday, and although school is typically not in session, a group of about 45 children have gathered to welcome me. Singing songs, demonstrating their practiced dancing, shyly staring at me as I take their pictures - Ohm and the ever faithful director of our school Theany go over the much needed repairs, supplies and expansion necessary to support some 200 students.
They are beautiful, resilient beings and there arises a sweet, inexplicable ache inside my heart everytime I'm with them.
Through continued fundraising back in the states, I brought what I had currently raised ($5,000) and we huddled in the makeshift office of the school to decide how best to allocate it.
Number 1 - building another open-aired classroom facility, purchasing desks, installing a bathroom (or happy house as we call it here), repairing the local water well on the school property and then
Number 2 - scouting around for other areas in nearby villages to build wells.
We climb into our van for an afternoon of bargaining/purchasing supplies; i.e. local lumber yards, makeshift furniture stores for school desks, plumbing facilities.
It's been a busy, productive first day and the weariness from the long flights begins to creep in.
We manage an early dinner while watching a one hour local traditional dance show before Ohm returns us to the charming Siddharta Hotel and we collapse into bed for some much needed rest.
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